Rolex Overhauls its Submariner Collection: A Review of the 2020 Edition
In 2020, Rolex unveiled its latest iteration of the Submariner collection, sparking an unprecedented surge in demand for its Oyster model featuring a striking green bezel. Our review, sourced from the WatchTime Archives, delves into this newest edition, examining its modified case and updated movement to determine if it lives up to the widespread anticipation.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date LV (Ref. 126610LV)
Stepping into any replica Rolex dealership, one is bound to encounter inquiries about the elusive new Submariner adorned with a green bezel-yet such requests often end in disappointment. The demand for this model far outstrips its availability, fueling an atmosphere of fervent anticipation and escalating market prices. Surpassing even the revered Daytona and GMT-Master II “Pepsi,” the green Submariner reigns as the most coveted Rolex model. This scarcity isn’t contrived; Rolex simply struggles to produce enough watches to meet the staggering demand, a challenge spanning steel, steel-and-gold, and all-gold variants.
But what distinguishes the green iteration as the pinnacle of allure amidst an array of updated Submariner models? Primarily, it stands as the sole steel version visibly divergent from its predecessors. Its forerunner, the “Hulk,” boasted a green sunburst dial alongside the green bezel-a departure from the new model’s sleek black dial. Rolex reintroduces a color scheme reminiscent of the pre-Hulk era, notably the “Kermit” model (2003-2010), renowned for its black dial and green aluminum bezel inlay. Moreover, the resurgence of the earlier, more refined case silhouette echoes the Kermit’s aesthetic, departing from the robust “Maxi” case introduced with the ceramic bezel debut.
Green Evolution: The 2010 “Hulk” with its “Maxi” Case (left), the 2020 LV (center), and the 2003 “Kermit” with Aluminum Bezel (right).
Expanding Dimensions
Initial confusion arose regarding the dimensions of the new model. While Rolex specifications heralded a larger 41mm case, a side-by-side comparison with its predecessor suggests otherwise. In reality, the Oyster case experiences a marginal expansion from 40.3mm to 40.8mm, with notably slimmer lugs lending a streamlined profile. The Oyster bracelet widens to 21mm between the lugs, and the clasp gains a 1mm increase in width.
Overall, sans direct comparison, the discrepancies are scarcely discernible save for the refined lugs. Aside from marginally broader hands, the dial remains largely unchanged-unless one opts for the Submariner LV, our test specimen, paying homage to the reference number 126610LV denoting “lunette verte” (green bezel). Contrasting the standard model’s lustrous black dial, its predecessor boasted a green sunburst finish. The preference between the two lies in personal taste; the Hulk exuded extroverted flair, while the new rendition assumes a more utilitarian guise. The ceramic bezel retains its hue, while the older Kermit diverges with its darker aluminum track.
The practical folding clasp now features a finely incremented extension piece, 1mm wider than before.
A New Caliber Emerges
Noteworthy is the petite crown positioned on the dial, nestled amidst the “Swiss made” insignia-a hallmark of the latest Caliber 3235, as seen in other Rolex models. A substantial overhaul of the 3135 caliber, this iteration boasts over 90% component modification, garnering 14 patents for its advancements. Notably, enhancements in shock absorption and reliability are highlighted. Winding efficiency escalates, bolstering a quicker power reserve buildup, courtesy of the new ball bearing rotor. Some may notice the rotor’s audible presence, a departure from its previous silent operation.
Most notably, wearers benefit from an extended power reserve, now spanning 70 hours-an achievement facilitated by a slimmer barrel wall accommodating a lengthier mainspring. Furthermore, the innovative Chronergy escapement amplifies the Swiss lever escapement’s efficiency by 15%, thanks to its modified and skeletonized form, reducing weight. Crafted from a nickel-phosphorous alloy via the LIGA process, the escape wheel remains impervious to magnetic fields, while the new balance staff enhances antimagnetic properties. The blue Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorber, familiar from other models, ensure precision and durability. Fine regulation employs the Breguet overcoil on the hairspring, alongside free-sprung adjustment via Microstella nuts on the balance wheel’s interior.
Caliber 3235 boasts an extended power reserve of 70 hours.
Superlative Chronometry
In 2015, replica Rolex introduced stringent regulating standards, rejuvenating the “Superlative Chronometer” appellation. Initially gracing dials in the late 1950s, this designation surpassed standard chronometer certification requirements. Albeit discontinued by chronometer agencies, Rolex maintains rigorous standards, adjusting cased movements to tighter tolerances of -2 to +2 seconds per day.
While our test watch falls slightly short of these values on the Witschi timing machine, registering an average rate of -2.3 seconds per day across various positions, individual deviations remain within acceptable bounds. Notably, legibility, a hallmark of Rolex watches, prevails despite minor hindrances posed by features like the flat, reflective crystal-although its antiglare coating aids visibility.
The Submariner’s closed Oyster case, reminiscent of its namesake shell.
Enduring Elegance
Despite its 68-year tenure, the Submariner’s enduring design exudes contemporary appeal. Minimal alterations over the years preserve its robust yet modern aesthetic, bolstered by elements like the reflective ceramic bezel, lustrous black dial, and flat sapphire crystal. The versatility to complement formal attire or casual wear underscores its timeless charm, despite occasional compromises in legibility due to design features like the magnifying Cyclops lens.
With a svelte height of 12mm, the Submariner exudes elegance, maintaining a water resistance of 300 meters-an essential for divers. The Triplock crown, fortified by five gaskets, ensures moisture exclusion, while the corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel construction, dubbed “Oystersteel” by fake Rolex, ensures longevity.
The turning bezel, crafted from durable ceramic, offers seamless operation with resounding clicks at half-minute intervals. Luminescent markers and hands, coated with platinum, enhance legibility, complemented by Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight luminous material, emitting a distinctive blue glow in low-light conditions.
The Submariner’s enduring design has undergone minimal changes since its 1953 debut.
Exceptional Craftsmanship
Beyond its aesthetic allure, the Submariner impresses with meticulous craftsmanship. The bracelet’s individual links conform to the wrist’s contours, ensuring comfort even during prolonged wear. Ingenious features like the safety bar and easily accessible lever enhance usability, while impeccable finishing-polished surfaces juxtaposed with brushed accents-underscore Rolex’s commitment to excellence.
In summary, the Submariner embodies a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation. Proportional refinements, coupled with a formidable movement boasting an extended power reserve, elevate this watch to unparalleled heights. Despite minor deviations in rate results, its overall performance, comfort, and craftsmanship align with Rolex’s esteemed reputation. With justified acclaim, Rolex delivers its finest Submariner yet-leaving enthusiasts clamoring for more.
Manufacturer: Rolex SA, Rue François-Dussaud 3-7, 1211 Geneva, Switzerland
Reference Number: 126610LV
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Movement: In-house Caliber 3235, automatic, chronometer, 28,800 vph, 31 jewels, hack mechanism, quick-adjust date, Paraflex shock absorber, Glucydur balance with regulating screws, Parachrom hairspring with Breguet overcoil, Chronergy escapement, 70-hour power reserve, diameter = 28.5 mm, height = 5.37 mm
Case: Stainless steel, unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic track, flat sapphire crystal with antiglare coating on the inner side and Cyclops date lens, screw-down crown, threaded stainless-steel caseback; water resistant to 300 m
Bracelet and Clasp: Stainless-steel bracelet, safety folding clasp with incremental extension piece
Rate Results (Deviation in seconds per 24 hours):
Dial up: -1
Dial down: -2
Crown up: -3
Crown down: -2
Crown left: -2
Crown right: -4
Greatest deviation: 3
Average deviation: -2.3
Average Amplitude:
Flat positions: 287°
Hanging positions: 246°
Dimensions: Diameter = 40.8 mm, lug width = 21 mm, height = 12 mm, weight = 151 grams
Price: $9,550
Scores:
Bracelet and Clasp (Max. 10 points): 9
Operation (5): 5
Case (10): 9
Design (15): 14
Legibility (5): 5
Wearing Comfort (10): 10
Movement (20): 19
Rate Results (10): 7
Overall Value (15): 14
Total: 92 POINTS