When Audemars Piguet collaborated with Gerald Genta on the Royal Oak in 1971 and 1972, they could not have predicted the commercial success the watch would bring. 1981 saw the release of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar, designed to be the thinnest perpetual calendar of its kind. It set a standard of excellence that continues to this day and which few watches can compete with.
The case and bracelet have a straw tone to the gold, and the bracelet is brushed to give it a mellow tone and feel. The case and bezel have a combination of high polish and satin finishes, giving a warm and subtle feel that is inviting without being overbearing.
At 39 mm, this replica watch is still a relevant size today, while at 8.6 mm thick, it is a serious contender for the everyday wearer. The bracelet and clasp feature the original design with a white gold single-fold hallmarked clasp and an AP friction buckle as an extra safety clasp. It feels almost out of place on this Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar.
The dial is calm rather than cluttered, providing a perfect background of straw gold on which to read the time. The month, day and date registers are clear and easy to read. The midnight navy blue moon phases add depth and complexity to the yellow gold dial and look perfect with the blue hands of the month, day and date registers. gold cabochons at 12, 3 and 9 o’clock provide convenient reference points, while polished bars at other locations on the dial serve as hour markers. The gold hands are delicate, but reflect the time and remind the wearer of the imitation watch’s age.
If the 1980s were a decade of decadence, this watch is the calm before and after the storm. It is clearly the backdrop for all modern Royal Oaks, an impeccable execution of a watch that was as perfect in 1986 as it is today. This Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has a timelessness that makes it the perfect everyday wear perpetual calendar.